After downloading many objects that were already made, I have started learning how to modify designs and make my own. I am now at the level where I can measure basic objects and duplicate them with my printer.
In it’s new location I continued to improve and print as many things as I could find. Not many more improvements were made to the printer directly as it had now reached a point where it was reliably finishing prints without too much issue. Not going to label each picture here, but these were among the things I have made recently.
Now that the printer was in good working order, I have moved it to my my office. The first order of business is to build replacement parts. Parts break all the time so I want to have extras on hand. If a part ever breaks, I should be able to put a replacement part on and then immediately create a new replacement. This is one of the X carriage ends.
One of the things I would like to do with the printer is to make gaming miniatures. It turns out that making small detailed objects is a fairly difficult task for a 3d printer to do. It takes very good heat control to avoid making a blob. To get enough control I had to change the nozzle to a different design, as well as add an additional cooling fan. This had the negative side effect of making the printer fairly loud. On the plus side, it made the printer much more accurate for smaller objects.
Once I calibrated the printer properly and verified I was making pieces in the proper dimension, the next step was to start improving the printer. Many things I had simply stuck together with hot glue and things I had lying around. The endstop supports and endstop flags were one of these things, made out of a cut up credit card and glue. Another issue I was facing was the ability to feed the plastic into the machine. I had the roll sitting next to it and would have to untangle it by hand every few minutes. To fix this, I printed a support for the roll that I still use today.
The first thing was to take inventory of what was there. I made a list of everything I had, and compared it to the list of parts that the printer should have. Once I figured out what I needed to make the printer minimally functional, I order a few things and put it together. These pictures here show the printer from getting it set up to printing test cubes.
These are the first three cubes to come out of the printer. From left to right it was three days of learning and fine tuning. By the third cube, it was pretty close to the size and shape it was supposed to be.
My 3d printer was given to me by a friend. It was a partially assembled setup, and it included a bag full of parts. I’ve gone from having zero experience with a 3d printer, to having assembled and improved this one, and now I am building a larger one by adapting existing designs into something I like. Throughout the process I have taken several pictures and videos. In the next several days I will be writing a series of posts on my experience with 3d printing.
Recently I had to have a few MRIs done. Many times in an MRI more than one view of the body is taken. Most DICOM software will allow you to compare two series and will show lines indicate where each view is on the different image. If you have moved, even 1mm, in the MRI machine these numbers will not match up, making visualization a little difficult with the lines off.
To solve this, I wrote a ruby script. Point it to a folder full of DICOM files and it will allow you to apply an offset to the image plane in a series. You can then visually match features and apply an offset to have a more accurate view of where you are looking at in the body.